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by EG
April 3, 2022
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Always had a wish to do surfing, to enjoy the power of the ocean.

Finally, in Portugal, it was a great time to start to do this.

I did know that I will need to deal with a lot of challenges.

  • Waves that turn into a ‘washing machine’ where you lose the sense of north and south
  • Waves when they break can knock you out
  • The paranoia of huge waves that looks like a 10 story building behind you
  • Chance of meeting jellyfish and a small possibility of meeting sharks
  • Getting hit by the surfboard
  • And many more…

But the best part was talking to the ocean. To have its energy inside myself.

Words cannot describe but every time I finished a surfing session I felt energized and calm.

The calmness I can’t describe. Exhausted but at the same time energized.

The ocean is alive, so it was good to have an adult conversation before and after the session.

And one of the best parts is the feeling when you catch the wave. The wave takes you forward with so much power that hits endorphins to their max.

It’s incredible how the ocean can change in one day.

One day is peaceful and calm but the next day with massive waves.

Below are a few images from surfing sessions. Still a student.

Early November morning.

One of my first sessions.

I still remember.

Small waves that turn into bigger waves.

Small baby steps.

They say it’s easy and simple. Especially with 3 meters high waves behind you.


Pre-surfing preparation is important. Warm-up is one of them.

Also, Zinc cream is important. Otherwise, the sun can cook you.

This was just the beginning. More surfing sessions will come around the world!